From avid hikers to streetwear influencers, you can spot the cargo pants and militarycore aesthetic everywhere today. This season, however, designers are approaching it in an experimental and structured manner. Luxury brands such as Off-White, Valentino and Act Nº1 went all out with their recent runway looks sporting military aesthetics. Fashion houses such as Coperni, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton and Diesel also included these styles in their spring 2023 runways. Even celebrities such as supermodels Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, actor Emily Ratajkowski and singer Rihanna, are making this style cool again. With its growing popularity, experts decode this fashion mission for us.
“Military-inspired fashion is the biggest trend of the season. It’s not limited to just pants, but it’s cargo everything: skirts, shorts, jackets and matching sets,” informs Amritha Ram, creative director at KH House of Khaddar. Designer Aniket Satam adds to the sentiment, saying, “Combat fashion becomes mainstream when people can associate with the core idea of protection. Post-pandemic, we can all relate to this collective feeling, making it trend this year.”
What is militarycore?
Think camouflage prints, utilitarian details and silhouettes, and rustic colour palettes including khaki, olive, brown and tan. “These become militarycore’s key styling elements. Some of the accessories under this trend include dog chains, berets, caps and patches,” informs Satam. Designer duo Rishi and Vibhuti add that everything linked to a military uniform — from the choice of dark colours, functional accents such as pockets, zippers, buckles, etc. to camouflage patterns — falls under this style.
The evolution
Several reports suggest that the style is inspired by ’30s British military uniforms. The uniforms were made to facilitate soldiers to carry extra ammunition and other necessary supplies to the battlefield. It was adopted by the fashion industry later, when viewed with a utilitarian lens. The pocket-heavy design went big in the ’90s and early 2000s and is seeing an uptick again with the rise of Y2K fashion.
“It has undergone a high-fashion makeover, translating into tailored silhouettes, interesting pocket placements infused with ultra-luxe fabrics, clever detailing, modern cuts and a variety of shades,” says Ram.
Style it right
While everyone wants to jump on the trendwagon, Satam warns that overdoing it can look like cosplay. “Add one element and build the entire look around it, like wearing chunky combat shoes or a camouflage-print shirt. Simple and well-done colour blocking with olive green, khaki, or coffee can work well too,” he says. Agreeing with him, designer Rishi Roy adds more about anchoring the look with accessories: “Either go heavy on military-inspired accessories or invest in some statement outerwear, like jackets in khaki, a heavy woollen trench coat, or a nylon bomber jacket with badges and patches.”