In rugged Yamanashi, a wild-goose chase for ‘real Japan’

When my train from Shinjuku Station breaks free from the claustrophobic surroundings of Tokyo and its suburbs, the sight of Mount Fuji cresting the peaks curtaining the Koshu Valley is a breath of fresh air.

It’s not that Japan’s big cities are inherently suffocating, but the rest of the country is often so rural that even a few hours under the open sky of a prefecture or two away from the main population centers can seem like traveling to a different country.

Perhaps this is why when the Japan National Tourism Organization invited me on a tour of Minobu, a sleepy temple town in Yamanashi Prefecture, the agency branded it as a chance “to experience the ‘real’ Japan.”

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