For the uninitiated, the trend of getting a dewy dumpling skin started as a lockdown fad when a makeup artist demonstrated the makeup routine which is to emulate the appearance that steamed dumplings have and there are plenty of YouTube tutorials out there which will tell you the layering of the makeup so that one can achieve the K-beauty look with a foundation, concealer, highlighter, blush and finally face mist. That’s the easy part but the difficult part is the first step of any skincare routine which is – to have amazing natural skin of your own.
K-beauty regime is layering products one over another in the right order and technique by following a precise skincare routine and it’s important to follow this using the right products which, according to Dr Akanksha Sanghvi (Aesthetic Dermatologist and Founder of Oprava Aesthetics) are generally a combination of skin actives like glycolic acids, lactic acids, vitamin C, Retinols, niacinamide and non-actives such as ginseng, fermented rice water, propolis, centella asiatica which are calming, hydrating and repairing creams or serums.
In an interview with HT Lifestyle, Dr Agni Kumar Bose, Dermatologist, Venereologist and Dermatosurgeon, insisted to keep in mind that you cannot shoot a cannon from a small, unsteady boat and however good the makeup layering might be, your skin has to be good on its own. She suggested:
1. Exfoliation goes a long way! – Look for labels such as AHA. BHA (salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid). These are also called superficial chemical peels. For someone with oily skin, you can exfoliate 2-3 times a week and for someone with dry skin, once a week is good enough. Exfoliation helps remove the dead layer of the skin and gives you a nice glow. The day that you are exfoliating, your skin will be super sensitive – just stick to sunscreen and moisturizer.
2. Sunscreen is your best friend – Even if you were to forego every other skincare product, do not forego sunscreen. Sunscreen is All day, every day. Minimum spf 30. Two fingers are worth it for the face and the neck. Reapply it every 4 hours. And yes, you also need to wear sunscreen even if indoors! If you can see things without turning on your lights, it’s because sunlight is coming inside your house, that’s why wear it even indoors.
3. Collagen – Topical collagen creams aren’t effective as collagen as a molecule is very big and cannot penetrate the skin. Oral collagen powders are better. Keep in mind, collagen is an animal protein which means that it will always be a non-veg product; veg collagen does not exist. Veg/vegan sources will be labeled as collagen boosters, not collagen. What is better? The actual collagen as it helps to keep the skin hydrated, and supple and gives it a nice bounce.
4. Moisturiser – The ideal time to moisturize your face and body is within 2-3 minutes after your shower while the skin is still moist. If your skin is on the oilier side, there are gel-based moisturizers that will have sebum control, non-comedogenic on their label. Keep in mind that moisturizers are specific to skin types. Using a heavy moisturizer meant for dry skin while you have oily skin will lead to breakouts and uneven skin. All the best hiding that with layers of makeup!
5. Retinol – This is the perfect PM routine. Helps even out the skin texture, and reduces patchy pigmentation. The factory resets your skin. Helps better penetration of other skincare actives
6. All the above steps will be the backbone of your skincare routine. On top of this, if you want to experiment, although this much also will be good enough. A few optional add-on steps can be – Niacinamide serum and/or Vitamin C serum. Niacinamide you can use AM after your cleanser and before your sunscreen. Vitamin C ideally use at night and if you’re incorporating this – in that case, one-night Vitamin C, one-night Retinol. Easy right?
Dr Akanksha Sanghvi revealed, “Layering helps to rejuvenate, heal and hydrate the skin gently improving overall skin health.” Talking about monthly treatments of infusion facials, she said, “These are one of the most advanced forms of medicated facials that use a pressurised cleansing jet to clean the skin, followed by pumping in exfoliator serums containing glycolic acid and lactic acid, and finally infusion of vitamin C essence along with, niacinamide, peptides, botanicals and HA. The Korean facial also includes radio frequency tightening for firmer, tauter skin. The facial uses remodelling masks containing intense hydrating oils, amino acids and bamboo extracts for skin recovery and the final boost for plump dewy skin.”
Another method is laser toning and Dr Akanksha Sanghvi explained, “Laser toning uses Q switch Nd: YAG laser as a stand-alone treatment or together with facials to reduce skin imperfections, hyperpigmentation, even skin tone and open pores. It further helps in reducing tan including freckles, lentigines, some birthmarks and age spots.”
She concluded by highlighting about radiofrequency skin tightening, a unique gold-standard method to tighten the skin without using any needles or injectables in only one session and said, “It works by gently heating and stimulating the deep layers of the skin with a hand-held wand, almost like a hot stone massage. Due to the thermal energy, the skin is stimulated in the treated areas to produce collagen and improve skin laxity. The radio-frequency sessions are planned at fixed intervals and one can do up to 6 sessions for maximum benefits. A mild heat sensation is all that is felt on the face almost like a hot stone massage. With each session, the facial skin looks firmer, tauter and more contoured. It further reduces fine lines and deep folds, especially around the eyes, mouth, forehead and neck. Its popularity is increasing in treating saggy areas on the body as well, such as arms and abdomen.”