Glass half full: Japan’s sake industry celebrates a brighter 2024

A hexagonal, dark wood-paneled counter at Sake Studio Tokyo is lined with bottles — and anticipation.

Miniature jars are laid out before me as I’m about to (re)familiarize myself with the aromas they contain. I take a whiff of a grapefruit candy and then curiously find it tickling my nose as I sip sake from elegant wine glasses. Questions and proclamations from those at the counter grow bolder (“How can the rice be the same but the flavor so different?”) as I gulp down the free refills on offer.

I’m at a converted Showa Era (1926-89) tobacco shop in Tokyo’s Kanda neighborhood for a brand-new tasting experience, part of a wave of growing interest in Japan’s national drink. As the number of overseas visitors to Japan continues to skyrocket, the country’s cuisine is in the spotlight, and sake-focused experiences are very much in demand.

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