On a chilly December night in Manhattan, I step inside a renovated carriage house in the stylish but understated Gramercy Park neighborhood and find myself on the first floor of Martiny’s.
I’m among the first wave of the evening — all by reservation — to enter this handsomely appointed space of wood and brick, opened just a few years ago in 2022 by Tokyo native Takuma Watanabe. A staff member ushers me to my seat at the counter, where I’m offered an o-shibori (hot towel) to warm my hands. The tinkling piano and mournful sax of Duke Ellington’s “In a Sentimental Mood” along with the redolence of palo santo (Bursera graveolens) vegetation complete the ambience: at once timeless, polished and relaxed.
For an opening foray into the substantial drink menu, the signature Grand Martiny’s makes for a natural entry point. It’s a concoction of Bombay Sapphire gin, La Cigarrera sherry, Churchill’s port, Hine cognac, St-Germain elderflower liqueur and whole grapes served in a classic martini glass. Cold, sweet and smooth, the cocktail strikes a fine balance with its array of ingredients and pays homage to the bar’s namesake — French American artist Philip Martiny, the former owner of this carriage house — as well as Watanabe’s mixology training.