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Five Places to Visit in Dakar, Senegal, With Singer Baaba Maal

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Had everything gone to plan, the singer-songwriter Baaba MaalтАЩs move to SenegalтАЩs capital from the northern hinterlands would have ended up differently тАФ specifically, with a law degree. тАЬWhen I first came to Dakar, I was supposed to study at the university because that was the wish of my parents,тАЭ he said, while a pair of sculptures, as if on cue, eyed him sternly.

I met Mr. Maal тАФ the тАЬvoice of WakandaтАЭ to fans who know him from the soundtracks of тАЬBlack PantherтАЭ and тАЬBlack Panther: Wakanda ForeverтАЭ тАФ at DakarтАЩs Museum of Black Civilizations. As we roamed the galleries, he explained that he loved this place for its efforts to repatriate plundered African treasures and its power тАЬto make the young ones interested in arts.тАЭ Now 70, he recalled being an artsy young one himself. тАЬWhat was really, deeply strong inside me тАФ which is to be a singer, to be a performer тАФ came out when I got to Dakar,тАЭ he said. тАЬIf I wanted to be an artist, I said, тАШThis is where IтАЩm going to start a career.тАЩтАЭ

So there went his parentsтАЩ plan, but his own has worked out nicely. This year alone, he released his 14th studio album, тАЬBeing,тАЭ to critical acclaim, became a goodwill ambassador for the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification тАФ a continuation of the work of his nonprofit Nann-K тАФ and began preparations for his arts and culture Blues du Fleuve festival in early December. While he still travels often, he said, тАЬIтАЩve always wanted Dakar to be where I start my work, get ready for my tours тАФ and come back.тАЭ

The appeal was clear. Since heтАЩd moved to Dakar, the city had instituted renowned biennales and fashion weeks. And just the small stretch of the thoroughfare where we stood featured not only the museum, but also the Grand Th├й├вtre National and the restored Art Nouveau commuter rail station. тАЬThis is a new dynamic,тАЭ he said, pointing out a spot where hip-hop artists now draw thousands of young people to open-air performances. Reveling in the energy, he added, тАЬI often pass by here, open the car window, look at the people coming out of the train and say to myself, тАШYes, this is the kind of Senegal I want to see.тАЩтАЭ

Here are five of his favorite places in and around Dakar.

тАЬI love to see tradition alive,тАЭ said Mr. Maal of the theater, inaugurated in 1965 by SenegalтАЩs first president, the poet-philosopher L├йopold S├йdar Senghor. тАЬAnd the tradition is still there тАФ the national ballet, the lyrical ensemble, a lot of traditional African music.тАЭ He also loves the theaterтАЩs soul: тАЬYou can see the portraits of all the artists who passed away a long time ago, and who represent a lot to Senegalese people.тАЭ

Sports fan or not, any music lover will enjoy a match at this soccer and wrestling stadium, where singing and drumming accompany the action. Mr. Maal has a particular fondness for wrestling, the national sport. тАЬItтАЩs not just the sport itself; itтАЩs the dramas, the singers, the costumes тАФ all the culture around the wrestling,тАЭ he said. Amadou Barry is also a music venue, where Mr. Maal is a beloved veteran performer. To visit this suburban stadium, you may want a guide.

тАЬWhen friends come, itтАЩs their favorite place to stay,тАЭ said Mr. Maal of this dreamy hotel тАФ all thatched domes, mosaic archways and bougainvillea blossoms тАФ in the suburb of Toubab Dialaw, about an hour outside Dakar, where the tranquillity-inducing views of the ocean and city lights inspired his iconic song тАЬDakar Moon.тАЭ He also recommends the nearby African dance institute ├Йcole des Sables, where anyone can attend the performances at the end of each multiweek session.

As much as Mr. Maal is an artist, by birthright, he said, тАЬIтАЩm a fisherman.тАЭ And his favorite local connection to those roots is Soumbedioune, where the beach and market are тАЬfull of life, noise and energy тАФ with all the boats going out early in the morning, the young people pulling them from the ocean and the women waiting to sell the fish in the markets.тАЭ

тАЬItтАЩs beautiful, and owned by a friend who loves to feed people,тАЭ said Mr. Maal of this restaurant thatтАЩs part of a colonial estate turned hotel on Gor├йe Island, 25 minutes off the coast. His song тАЬFatmataтАЭ is dedicated to the proprietor, whose kitchenтАЩs thieboudienne (fish, herby tomato sauce and rice), kaldou (garlicky fish and rice) and cтАЩest bon (grilled fish and seafood with an oniony sauce) are favorites of his. And UNESCO-listed Gor├йe Island, ringed in aquamarine waters, is considered a must for any visitor, as is its Maison des Esclaves, a testament to the horrors of slavery. While the islandтАЩs beauty and brutality feel decidedly at odds, you can, in Mr. MaalтАЩs view, тАЬgo from very hard, very sad experiences to see that after all, there is hope, there is light, and we can build something from that.тАЭ

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