NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE, England тАФ As he walked out of the tunnel and onto the field at St. JamesтАЩ Park, Eddie Howe paused for a beat. Much of the time, Newcastle UnitedтАЩs manager makes a conscious effort to maintain the distance between himself and the effects of his work. It is a natural instinct, a self-defense mechanism.
But for once, Howe could not stop himself from taking in the tableau. All around him, the steep banks of seats were filled with striped black-and-white flags. In the Gallowgate, the grandstand that serves as the stadiumтАЩs heart and lungs, there were banners for heroes current and past.
тАЬA lot of the time, you do separate yourself from some of the feeling around the city,тАЭ Howe reflected a couple of hours later. тАЬBut itтАЩs good to get an idea of what it means. The view of the stadium, all of the scarves and the flags: It is an incredible place to play.тАЭ
In recent years, that has not always been the case. For more than a decade, as it bristled under the unpopular and at times deliberately provocative ownership of the British sportswear tycoon Mike Ashley, St. JamesтАЩ Park stewed in melancholy and resentment and despair.
The contrast, these days, is stark. Newcastle has the distinct air of a club going places: possibly to Europe, and the Champions League, by the end of the season; and, more immediately, to Wembley, to face Manchester United in SundayтАЩs league cup final.
On the bitingly cold night in January when HoweтАЩs team confirmed its place in that showpiece, the club unveiled to the crowd Anthony Gordon, a winger acquired from Everton for more than $45 million a couple of days earlier. Clutching a Newcastle scarf and blinking under the floodlights, he seemed just a little taken aback by the fervor of his greeting.
Gordon is just the latest in a string of a dozen or so new signings added to the squad at considerable expense in the past year, but that recruitment drive is not the only explanation for NewcastleтАЩs rise.
Howe has also reinvented or repurposed many of the players he found when he first arrived: Joelinton, a misfiring forward turned into an all-action midfielder; Sean Longstaff, an academy product given a second chance; and, most spectacularly, Miguel Almir├│n, an eager but mercurial winger who suddenly, on either side of the World Cup, decided to be the Premier LeagueтАЩs deadliest finisher.
That all have flourished, unexpectedly, under Howe has burnished NewcastleтАЩs underdog sheen, one that fits neatly with the clubтАЩs and the cityтАЩs sense of itself. There is something inherently romantic about the restoration of Newcastle. In one light, it is a rare and precious feel-good story for English soccer. The problem is that, in another, it really isnтАЩt.
Revitalized
Every couple of minutes, Bill Corcoran has to put the brakes on his train of thought to engage another fan wanting to throw a some coins or a folded bank note into his collection bucket. A volunteer for NewcastleтАЩs West End Foodbank, Corcoran greets them all like old friends.
He chews the fat with each of them about the eveningтАЩs game. Only lowly Southampton, bottom of the Premier League and on the verge of firing its coach for the second time this season, stood in between Newcastle and Wembley. Most of the fans, though, seem suspicious of this state of affairs. A twist, they assume, is coming. Loving a team and trusting it are very different things.
In between, without missing a beat, Corcoran returns to the subject at hand. Or, rather, subjects: At various points, he sweeps in the Tasmanian genocide of the 1820s, the relative merits of freeing Julian Assange, the Irish famine and the history of the Mikasa, a 20th-century Japanese battleship. This is not traditional pregame chatter.
It is, though, indicative of the strange intellectual territory NewcastleтАЩs fans have found themselves occupying over the last 18 months, ever since their club was purchased by a consortium fronted by the British financier Amanda Staveley and her husband, Mehrdad Ghodoussi, but backed largely by the Public Investment Fund, Saudi ArabiaтАЩs enormous sovereign wealth fund.
The deal itself was wreathed in controversy. The Premier League blocked the sale, at first, on the grounds of suspected Saudi involvement in the piracy of its broadcast rights. It only allowed it to go through after it had received тАЬbinding assurancesтАЭ that the P.I.F. was a distinct entity from the Saudi state. (Last week, in a legal dispute over the P.I.F.-backed LIV Golf series, the fund claimed тАЬsovereign immunityтАЭ in front of a federal judge in California.)
The dealтАЩs eventual approval drew thousands of fans to St. JamesтАЩ Park in celebration. A smattering waved Saudi flags. A handful wore traditional Saudi dress. The effect was jarring and disorienting: a brutal, repressive autocracy being greeted as liberators from the hated regime of Sports Direct.
Since then, the clubтАЩs owners have delivered everything the fans could have asked. Howe was appointed as manager. Newcastle has twice broken its transfer record to acquire a new star. It spent more money in last yearтАЩs January transfer window than any other club on earth. A team that had been languishing at the foot of the Premier League table has, in the blink of an eye, become a contender.
The effect has reverberated beyond the confines of the stadium. тАЬThere is a real buzz in the air,тАЭ said Stephen Patterson, the chief executive of NE1, which represents the interests of 1,400 businesses across NewcastleтАЩs downtown. тАЬThe success has spilled out of the club and into the city itself.тАЭ
In part, that is to do with a slate of major infrastructure projects getting underway in a city тАФ and a region тАФ that has long felt both underappreciated and underfunded by EnglandтАЩs political and financial power center in London. тАЬThe skyline is evidence of investor confidence,тАЭ Patterson said. тАЬIтАЩve never known so much public and private investment in the city.тАЭ
The soccer team, though, has acted as an accelerant. тАЬIt has de-risked a lot of projects,тАЭ said Rachel Anderson, the assistant director of policy at the North East England Chamber of Commerce. тАЬDevelopments that have sat on ice for a long time have come online. The takeover has acted as a catalyst. It makes it easier to raise financing or to greenlight a project.тАЭ
That тАЬbuzz in the air,тАЭ though, has come at a cost. The P.I.F.-led takeover of Newcastle has been condemned by a host of human rights organizations: Amnesty International, Human Rights Watch, FairSquare.
Democracy for the Arab World Now, a group launched by colleagues and friends of the murdered journalist Jamal Khashoggi, said that allowing the takeover to go through normalized тАЬa dictator who literally goes around butchering journalists.тАЭ KhashoggiтАЩs fianc├йe, Hatice Cengiz, said before the deal was announced that she was тАЬhorrifiedтАЭ at the prospect of Saudi ownership of an English club.
In the same time frame that its team and its city have started to soar, Newcastle has been turned into a cipher for the dangers of sportswashing, accused of being nothing but an attempt by the Saudi state to тАЬdistract from serious human rights violations,тАЭ as Amnesty put it. Inside Newcastle, the clubтАЩs new reality still feels a little like a dream. Outside, it has been cast as something far darker.
Moral Arbiters
The day the takeover went through, Charlotte Robson was invited onto a prominent national radio show to discuss the meaning and merit of NewcastleтАЩs new ownership. At one point, she remembers, another member of the panel bemoaned that the clubтАЩs fans had allowed it to happen. тАЬIt really struck me,тАЭ said Robson, a board member of the Newcastle United Supporters Trust. тАЬBecause I donтАЩt remember us being given much of a say.тАЭ
It would be wrong to suggest there has been a uniform response among NewcastleтАЩs fans to their new reality, beyond the fact that absolutely nobody misses Mike Ashley. At times, as the initial celebrations suggested, there have been some who are happy to embrace the links to Saudi Arabia, or at least the iconography of that connection.
For many, though, it has been a more complex, considered process. Robson herself would ideally like to see the club owned тАФ at least in part тАФ by the fans. She does not equate being a Newcastle fan with being a тАЬsupporter of the nation state of Saudi Arabia.тАЭ
She has, though, been able to take pleasure in the clubтАЩs rise. тАЬThe fact that the majority owners are not especially visible is important,тАЭ she said. тАЬThatтАЩs been helpful for a lot of fans trying to dissociate the club from the ownership.тАЭ
So, too, has the nature of the team. The clubтАЩs spending has been considerable, but hardly wanton by the bloated standards of the Premier League. What she calls the тАЬredemption storyтАЭ of the more long-serving members of the squad, meanwhile, has made it feel more organic. тАЬAlmir├│n was signed by Rafa Ben├нtez, three managers ago,тАЭ Robson notes. тАЬYou can point to the coaching staff and say itтАЩs because of them.тАЭ
Her instinct, though, is largely that many fans resent the idea that it should fall on them to act as тАЬmoral arbitersтАЭ for the game, when nobody in a position of power тАФ the Premier League, UEFA, the British government тАФ is prepared to do the same.
тАЬThe league has a policy dating back years of letting potentially unscrupulous actors in,тАЭ she said. тАЬThe average fan is a bit put out that itтАЩs apparently their job to object, when all they want to do is watch their team.тАЭ
That, certainly, is where Corcoran falls on the spectrum. Despite his unprompted disquisition on the many and varied failings of British and American foreign policy, 1820-2023, he insisted he has not had to тАЬpersuade himselfтАЭ to accept the ethical legitimacy of Saudi ownership.
All he has seen so far, he said, has been encouraging: The owners have pledged to match whatever donations to the food bank he and his fellow volunteers can raise on matchdays. There have been no edicts passed that contravene his sense of what Newcastle United should represent.
тАЬIf they asked us to compromise our morals, we would be the first to protest,тАЭ he said. тАЬNewcastle is about being inclusive, being welcoming, open to everybody, and those values will not change. It is not worth being a great team if it comes at the cost of being ourselves.тАЭ
Not everyone has been able to make that sort of accommodation. тАЬThere is no glory in success obtained like this,тАЭ said John Hird, a member of NUFC Fans Against Sportswashing, a lobbying group set up in the aftermath of the takeover.
Though a vast majority of fans have тАЬrespected our right to protest,тАЭ Hird said, his group has been regularly falsely smeared тАФ particularly online тАФ as some sort of sleeper cell composed of Sunderland fans, seeking to effect the destruction of NewcastleтАЩs impending golden age.
In reality, its aims are a little more modest. Hird said he would like to see the cityтАЩs lawmakers, as well as larger, more established fan groups, тАЬmake good on their promise to be a critical friend to the Saudi owners.тАЭ He would encourage those fans won over by the benefits of the takeover тАЬat least to speak up on human rights.тАЭ
Though its numbers are small тАФ тАЬwe accept we are a minority,тАЭ Hird said тАФ the group has done what it can to make its voice heard, staging protests outside St. JamesтАЩ Park and, last week, delivering a letter to Eddie Howe on behalf of the family of a dissident imprisoned in Saudi Arabia.
Thus far, though, it has been lost in the clamor generated by NewcastleтАЩs ascent. Every train south is booked this weekend. St. JamesтАЩ Park is an тАЬincredibleтАЭ place to play once more. Newcastle has the air of a club going places. Most fans do not see it as their job to stop and think about how it got there.